Instrument Pod

Instrument Pod Removal

I've seen the question raised a few times in these lists (in fact, I raised it myself a few weeks
ago!), so I thought I'd send in a procedure to remove the instrument pod, if you find yourself
in need of doing it. I learned it the hard way while trying to put on a dashcap ( I know,
Phil...they may not be the best looking thing in the world, but it looks a LOT better than the
sun-destroyed dash I have, and I can't afford a new one right now. The cap cost all of $25,
marked down from $120!). This procedure worked for an '82.

First, if you are going to install a dash cap and you need to change the color, first you MUST
clean off all residue from the cap. Dishwashing detergent and water works nicely. Next, find
the color that matches the leather. In my case, Cordovan Brown plastic and vinyl dye, by
SEM, matched perfectly.

Now, on to the fun part. First, remove the steering wheel. To do this, you must first remove
the center part (horn). This is done by grabbing both sides of the pad and pulling straight
back sharply. If you try to do it slowly, you will most likely break the plastic rings in the back
from too much wiggling. Disconnect the horn lead from the pad. Now remove the steering
wheel. It's best if you mark which way it wnet on, so that it lines up properly on re-assembly.
Don't know the exact mm size of the nut, but a 1 1/16" socket should do it. Once the steering
wheel is removed, it's time to get on your back. Remove the two cover panels under the pod
using a Phillips screwdriver and a 10mm socket. One panel goes essentially the length of the
pod, and the other is small and covers the bottom half of the turn signal and other modules on
the steering column. The two 10mm bolts that hold on this cover are two of the ones holding
on the pod itself. There are two other 10mm bolts that must be removed. One is on the ignition
lock assembly tube on the far left side as you are looking up from the bottom (it doesn't look
like it's doing anything, but it is holding on that side). The last one to be removed is on the
direct opposite side of the pod, in roughly the same position. These are both long bolts.

Once these are removed, the entire pod can be worked free. The instruments will be coming
with it. Pay attention as to how the instrument cluster is held in place. There is a channel on
the right side as you face the instruments from the seat that goes around the bolt and guide
assembly that you removed (the guides should still be in place). On the left, there is an
indentation in the pod which holds the same setup in place. It should be obvious when you
see it. The pod will probably take some maneuvering to get it up and past the levers on the
steering column, but it will go.

Re-assembly is the reverse of the process, paying close attention to how the instruments fit
into the pod. Once everything is lined up, things just kinda slide into place. Remember to put
the steering wheel back on in the right alignment, and the nut takes 33 ft-lbs of torque, by the
book.

This is the ONLY way you will be able to put on a dashcap without breaking it.

Hope this helps somebody out sometime!

Check six,

Barry M.
'82 red/tan leather (slowly fixing it up!)



Some observations for those with earlier models. The ignition switch is not secured to the
pod as I assumed, but rather is part of the large cast aluminum cradle lifting mechanism that

supports the pod. Nice piece of casting too. The 4-10 mm bolts are actually 3-10 mm bolts and
a small round head bolt with a hex drive recess on the ignition switch itself. This is connected
to the fourth 10 mm bolt via a swing arm, since this bolt is directly above the ignition switch
and therefore not accessible.

Ed B
'80 928 5spd



Having recently performed the task for similar reasons, I will add a few thoughts. There are
4-10 mm bolts to remove the pod. This after removing the steering wheel, turn signals and
relate covers of coarse. On my '80 928 you can not remove the lower right side bolt because it
is directly over the ignition switch, which is a significant and unmovable subframe assembly.
All is not lost, looking carefully there is a Philips head screw on the subframe that releases an
arm on this bolt. Upon its removal the connection is released. The two long bolts actually
hold the pod in place via large rubber bushings. Just another thing not discussed in the
service manuals. Be gentle with the cluster it is all plastic and can be brittle.

Two suggestions, Now is a good time to replace the bulbs in your cluster. They are many, but
they are cheap. I would also give a good look at your printed circuit board. Instrument
malfunctions can start hear as well and include the fairly flimsy connectors to plug into the
harnesses.

I have also recommended the use of a good small cosmetic mirror to help you locate the bolts,
unless you like hanging upside down all day.

Ed B
'80 928 5spd (Old Grey)
Schwarzmetallic



I have removed mine several times, and have yet to have to remove the multifunction switch.
Once you remove all 4 bolts (two LONG hex head and two regular bolds) pull the pod forward
and slide it over the ignition. Once you have done that, you can reach in behind the cover and
remove three electrical connectors to the gauge pod, and slide it out over the dash and under
the gauge pod. Be careful not to lose the 4 aluminum and rubber grommets that hold the
gaugepod in with the long hex bolds. After you do this, the gauge disassembly is simple. I
even replaced my odometer gear last time I was in there.

Robert Hill


***********************************************

Instrument Pod Removal, '87 928S4
Gary Knox 4/10/2000

1. Position car so steering wheel has the top spokes of the four spoke wheel located in
horizontal position. This allows precise location of steering wheel to the position it is
currently in when re-installed.


2. Disconnect battery, both to prevent any accidental grounding of a positive wire (ANY
shorting in the 928 system can reportedly be damaging to very costly components), and
because removal of the instruments can result in a drain on the battery and fairly rapid
discharging (2-3 days).

3. Remove horn pad on steering wheel. With hands on the outside edges, pull upward sharply
in a straight line from the steering shaft. It should pop off, and will probably disconnect the
positive horn lead wire at same time (one of the wires that could short out).

3. Remove the steering wheel nut, (1 1/l6 inch socket with extension works, probably 27 or 28
mm nut). Place nut and washer with horn pad. Gently pull the wheel off the shaft and locate
with other parts.

4. From beneath the steering shaft, remove the black cover that is below the 2 rheostat
switches and the high intensity windshield washer push button (2 phillips head screws).
Then remove the vinyl cover that is same color as the dash, located under the turn signal,
wiper, and cruise control lever switches. (2 - 10 mm bolts). Put covers and screws/bolts with
other removed parts.

5. Loosen the bolt that tightens the circular clamp around the steering column, which holds
the triple switches onto the column.

6. Before these switches can be removed, the instrument pod must be loosened. There are two
bolts with allen heads on either end of the pod that hold it in place. Remove both of these
from below the pod (5mm allen wrench needed. Preferable one on a 1/4 or 3/8" drive socket
extension. A LONG angled wrench might work, but may be quite awkward.) Note, if you only
want to replace the triple switches and not remove the pod, you only need to loosen these two
bolts, as the pod pivots on one end and is clamped at the other. The pod will pivot enough to
allow removal of the switchgear. You can also go directly to step 8.

7. Remove the 5 switches on the right and left sides of the pod. First, gently pull on each of
the knobs, rocking up & down. The knobs should pull off easily. Each switch is held in the
pod by two plastic spring clamps at the top and bottom of the hole. Using a small screwdriver,
loosen one side, then the other. The actual switch pulls out from the pod toward the rear of
the car. After the switch and connection are out of pod, you can disconnect the switch and
put it with its appropriate knob. (suggest labeling each connector that stays with the car for
function, just in case.) After all 5 switches are removed, use a small screwdriver and gently
pry the rubber cover off from around the ignition switch.

8. Pull the pod toward the rear of the car ~ 1 inch, making room for the switches to be moved
up along the steering shaft and provide enough room behind the switches for the electrical
connections (3) to be disconnected.

9. CAREFULLY pull the pod toward the rear of the car. There will be 3 switches along the
bottom of the pod that need to be disconnected. The rheostat for dash lighting intensity, the
rheostat for intermittent wiper interval and the high intensity washer switch. I suggest
marking which wire goes on which terminal, as the electrical system in these cars can be quite
temperamental!

10. There are FOUR major connections to the instruments. Three are attached to the back of
the instruments and one is about a 12 inch long wire bundle going to a black connector. The
three attached to the back of the pod are mechanically connected, with 2 small plastic levers,
one on each side of the connector. GENTLY rotate these levers 90 degrees (from pointing to

front of car to pointing to each side). After both levers have been rotated, gently pull the
connectors apart. Be certain you know which wires attach to which pod connector for
re-installation.

11. When the wires attaching directly to the pod have been disconnected, the pod may be
pulled out and the wire bundle from the pod may be disconnected.

12. If it is going to be some time before the pod is replaced (repairing vinyl, sending
instruments off for repair, etc., I suggest carefully labeling EVERYTHING you took off or
disconnected, and have all the parts stored in a secure location. You might even want to take
photographs to document what you are doing along the way. Alternatively, you can just be
sure your photographic memory will be functioning clearly at the time of replacement!

13. CONGRATULATIONS, YOU HAVE NOW COMPLETED THE EASY PART. HOPEFULLY,
IF YOU GO BACKWARD FROM 12 TO 1, REPLACING THE INSTRUMENT POD WILL BE
JUST AS EASY!