Drive Train
CV Boot/Joint R&R
I have replaced all my CV boots and 1 CV joint. Having done it twice I can say its not that big a
job, though I did approach it with some apprehension initially. (which is normal for me). I used a
3/4 inch drive with a length of water pipe to remove the 32mm axle nut which is really tight
(check retorque settings). If you're working on the exhaust side of the car your need to let it
hang down by removing the two rear hangers, to allow room to remove the half shaft. After
removing the axle nut, undo the 8mm allen screws that attach the half shaft to the diff. If your
going to do a good job and wash out/repack the CV's (recomended) then loosen the 8mm
screws on the outboard side as well don't remove them yet though. Now you can slide the shaft
out. Before you dismantle the CV's take note of the positioning of the circular groove around
the outside of the CV ( inside ,outside type of thing) for reference when reassembling. Make
sure you get the right size boot, Talk to Mark Anderson (928 international) about it, he is aware
of the alternatives.
Good Luck.
Aussie Pete
I just did mine. Kind of fun to do actually. Get a new boot kit from 928 International that has the
grease, clamps, and boot included. You might want to disassemble it first to see if you need to
replace the CV joints themselves. Mine were still fine after 225k miles, so I just repacked them
with new boots.
Main thing is, if you are repacking them, to keep the ball bearings from each joint together with
the rest of the joint. They are originally matched, as I understand it.
If you want me to send you the pages from the manual, email me your snail mail address.
Daniel Shapiro
'82 928 5 speed Chiffon/Brown
I would add that if the CV joints are OK, after cleaning and adding new grease, put the left
half-shaft on the right and vis-versa. This helps equalize the wear on the joints.
~Merry motoring~
If you're already hearing the clunk, it's too late. Time for a new/rebuilt/used axle. Contact the
"usual suspects" for your choice.
Replacing is part finesse, part grunt. The 8mm Allen-head bolts (6/side) which attach the axle
flange to the transaxle is the finesse part. If changing the driver's side too, you'll need to drop
the exhaust stuff out of the way.
The 32mm axle nut that's behind your center cover on each wheel is the grunt part. Get out the
breaker bar and a floor jack handle. Do this with the car on the ground, tires chocked, e-brake
on.
After undoing all bolts, withdraw the axle thru the hub, toward the center of the car. Give the
outer end a whack with a plastic hammer to get it moving thru the hub. Have fun with all the
grease that should be present on the transaxle end!
Lubricate the splines on the replacement unit(s) with anti-seize compound. Use some
perma-snot on the transaxle flanges to hold the new gaskets in place.
If you want to repack the other one, kits with new boots and proper grease are also available
from the big 3. You can get just the grease from most speed shops (I like the Red Line brand).
David Lloyd
Farmington, CT
79 Euro, track car
Thanks to all who responded earlier with advice regarding removing and repacking CV joints.
Turned out just fine, no problems. Definitely a DIY job, especially if you like grease.
Everybody said one thing though, the fact that I'd have to remove the 32mm axle nut to remove
the axle. Nope! Believe it or not, my Chilton's manual (haven't bit the bullet and bought the
factory manuals yet) was right. Just remove the 6 bolts on each side, and out comes the entire
axle! Am I the exception to the rule? Is this something common to '78s only?
Kirk
'78 Silver 5 spd.
When I removed the axles, it was not necessary to loosen the axle nut, because both ends of my
axles are bolted. Sometime in 1982 there was a change where the wheel end of the axle shaft
became welded to the drive shaft to the wheel. Therefor on the earlier models you only have to
loosen the six bolts at the CV joints to remove the axles, whereas on the later ones from 1982 on
you have to remove the self-locking nut on the wheel end. This is discussed on pages 42-19
and 42-23 of the manual.
My shark was manufactured in July, 1981 so it still has the old setup.
Daniel Shapiro
'82 928 5 speed Chiffon/Brown
Heeding some excellent advice from Wally about the parking brake not holding when trying to
remove the axle nut, I put lug nuts on an adjacent pair of studs, placed the curved end of a three
foot crowbar in between them and used a 3/4 drive, 1-1/4 inch socket on a breaker bar with a
four foot cheater, (the handle from
one of my floor jacks). I had to practically stand on the cheater but they came loose without any
damage to the studs. Thanks for your advice-it probably saved several hours of wasted labor.
Don Burrows
87 S4, A/T