Transmission, Manual
Clutch Release Lever Bushing Replacement
My nylon "ball socket bushing" at the top of the clutch release lever has disintegrated over
time, so I am attempting to replace it with a new one. I have the bottom clutch housing removed
and was able to move the clutch release lever some, but not enough to be able to install the
new bushing. It looks to me like I need to remove the release lever in order to replace the
bushing. Is this true?
Reading the workshop manual, it seems to indicate that the release lever does not come out by
itself, but will come out if the entire clutch is removed. Is this correct, or is there some shortcut
method to remove just the release lever?
Now pages 30-6b to 30-6c cover clutch removal/installation for my car. Many of the steps make
sense to me, but a couple just leave me scratching my head and asking for help. Do I really
need to do these steps to get the clutch out?:
10. Fabricate three sheet-metal angles (2 mm thick), if no angles are [already] installed.
11. Insert angle in notch of pressure plate and slacken mounting bolts. Drive centering pins out
of flywheel toward pressure plate.
Is it really is necessary for me to do these two steps? If so, please explain exactly what it is I'm
doing here.
Waiting patiently for enlightenment ...
+Greg Nichols
'87 928S4, 5-speed, Venice Blue Metallic
Here is a shortcut you can try, it will be easier than removing the clutch and arm, if you can do
it. Even though Wally still doesn't believe it can be done (gotta show him one day :-) I will tell
you anyway !
(A) Install our 3-piece 928 Service Covers ($65) to protect your fenders (Yes, shameless plug,
but they are COOL! )
(B) Remove Airbox assembly (upper and lower)
(C) Look at the top of the "bell housing" or "clutch housing" where it mounts to the top of the
block. You will see a rectangular opening. Within this opening just off center towards the
drivers side you will see the top of the clutch release arm and part of the stud it snaps on to.
(D) Take a suitable prying device and pry the top of the lever towards the rear and then towards
the passenger side of your 928. This can sometimes be easy, sometimes it take more pressure
than you feel comfortable with, but it will come off. The main thing to be aware of is to not pry
on the ball stud, if you snap it then you will have to remove the clutch AND clutch housing to
repair. Hasn't happened to me .... yet (crossing fingers), but I have heard of it happening.
(E) Once you have the clutch release arm off and to the side you can proceed to dig out the
remains of the old bushing from the hole in the top of the arm.
(F) Insert new bushing, lube accordingly and then work it back over the ball stud and snap into
place (sometimes just that easy, sometimes a little stubborn)
IMHO this is much easier and a LOT quicker than removing the clutch assembly to replace the
bushing. It is trickier, but once you understand the procedure it gets easier, and you can do it
without even jacking up and getting under your 928 !
Good luck and let me know how it goes,
David Roberts
928 SPECIALISTS
Just loosen the bolts holding the clutch so that you get some movement of the clutch in place.
Do not remove the clutch entirely!!!! You have to follow the steps you listed below if you do
that.
Then you will be able to wiggle the lever so that it moves freely with no problem. The lever will
not come out completely unless you remove the entire clutch assembly, however, once it is free
from the ball you may be able to reach it from above or below to replace the bushing. If it is
necessary to press in the bushing, then you'll need to retighten the bolts, put in the brackets on
the clutch that you described below, and remove the clutch assembly. I faced and handled the
exact scenario with mine about a month ago! Be sure to retorque the bolts when reassembled, of
course.
Daniel Shapiro
'82 928 5 speed
Assuming that you have done everything else according to the book and you are ready to drop
the clutch. Remove the air filter and lower air filter housing. The top of the clutch release arm is
staring right at you through the top of the bell housing. Use a very long screwdriver or pry bar
and gently pry the release arm off of the pivot ball. It only takes several minutes to remove the
air filter box and this will save you tons of frustration. You will want to update you release
bearing, guide shaft and release arm to the newest version, it make shifting much smoother. If
you have the new style release bearing you MUST use the new arm and tube as well. The parts
are not interchangeable. You must use the 3 angle pieces of metal in the clutch, if you don't it
will never drop down. The 3 pieces keep the pressure plate from releasing just enough to clear
the bell housing. The new clutch plate will have the pieces installed at the factory ready for
install. Look at them if you need help with size or placemnet. BTY resurface that flywheel and
change the rear main seal and pilot bearing.
Good Luck,
Mark Rosenfield
89 S-4 New Clutch @ 115k
The angle pieces take the slack off the pressure plate so you can remove it more easily.
Otherwise you have to loosen one bolt a few turns, turn the crank, loosen another, turn crank
yada yada...
I was able to replace my release lever bushing from the top by going behind the motor. Sure it
was a pain, but it sure beat dropping the whole clutch.
Scott Mohr
A big "thank you" to all who responded so quickly to my request for advice yesterday, David
Roberts, Daniel Shapiro, Mark Rosenfield, and Scott Mohr. I ended up using DR's method to
successfully pry the top of the clutch release lever loose. Let me add a couple of my own notes,
for the sake of posterity:
1) I found it helpful to rotate the pressure plate such that the bottom of the release lever was
engaged in one of the three small recesses in the rim of the pressure plate (where the part
numbers were stamped.) This extra millimeter seemed to make the job a little easier. Use a 27mm
1/2-inch drive deep-socket to rotate the crankshaft on the front of the motor.
2) I was able to rotate the release lever free to the right side of the ball by a combination of
prying on the top side and hammering with a rubber mallet on the bottom side.
3) The best vantage point for working on the top of the clutch release lever is, of course, laying
right on top of the engine. To accomplish this comfortably (?!) I used a combination of fender
covers (of the cheap non-928 variety, unfortunately), wooden slats, and towels. Small and
medium sized crowbars seemed to be just the ticket for prying the release lever off and and then
back on with the new bushing. A minor amount of damage to the rim of the new bushing
occurred as I pryed it on. No big deal.
4) When installing the new bushing, I used a jackstand to support the bottom of the release
lever to keep it in the proper position. I also sprayed a light coat of lithium grease onto the new
bushing.
Hope this helps someone else in the future.
+Greg Nichols
'87 928S4, 5-speed, Venice Blue Metallic