what oil should look like,

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03 Sep 2012 08:25 #10908 by Ducman82
after starting this hybrid build, the oil has a grayness to it, and some shinny to it. no large chunks or anything, but what should oil look like when you break in a motor (rings, rod bearings new only)?

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03 Sep 2012 09:31 #10909 by Feather
Replied by Feather on topic what oil should look like,
Sounds to me like it is making metal. I would go out to the FBO at your airport and see if you can buy an oil analysis kit at the parts counter; or maybe something like that can be had at the auto parts store (I never tried there). Then run the engine til warm and draw enough oil out to fill the sample container and send it in for analysis. You will have your answer in just a few days.

Jerry Feather

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03 Sep 2012 15:05 #10916 by pcar928fan
I always hear folks say take a drip of oil from the dip stick and let it drip on to a black piece of paper and then look at it in the sun and see if there are any sparkly bits in it... if so that is a BAD SIGN, that said, this would be with old engines, not a new engine being broken in, but I would not expect to see much metal flake in a brand new rebuild I wouldn't think...

James
78 Silver / Black-white #295
84 Ruby Red / Black AO84
88 Dark Blue / Linen-Black
92 Polar Silver / Dark Blue 92EURO
93 Arrow Blue / Black

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03 Sep 2012 16:27 #10919 by Jon B.
Replied by Jon B. on topic what oil should look like,
During break-in, it's not uncommon at all to see some metal in the oil. That's why break-in oil is used, or some other "sacrificial" oil is used during initial miles. If it continues after the first change, then yeah, probably not a good thing. But if this is the first change, I would expect it.

Keep in mind that the "break-in" period is pretty short. Don't continue running that oil to a regular oil-change interval.

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03 Sep 2012 16:47 #10920 by 928mac
Replied by 928mac on topic what oil should look like,

During break-in, it's not uncommon at all to see some metal in the oil. That's why break-in oil is used, or some other "sacrificial" oil is used during initial miles. If it continues after the first change, then yeah, probably not a good thing. But if this is the first change, I would expect it.

Keep in mind that the "break-in" period is pretty short. Don't continue running that oil to a regular oil-change interval.


I normally only run break-in oil for around 1 hour at 1800 rpm.
The neighbors hate you if you have loud or even worse open exhaust.
Then I drain and run normal required oil for 2 to 3 hours with usually a drive in the middle.
Draining that oil and putting in the fresh makes sure that all the contaminates are out and not hammered into the bearings.
The next change I run up to 3000 kilometers or 2500 miles.
then 5000 k or 3800 miles.

This is just my quirkiness as a mechanic while breaking in a high/perf engine that I have spent maga bucks on

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05 Sep 2012 20:31 #11004 by Ducman82
Replied by Ducman82 on topic what oil should look like,
well it does not look like metal to me. i do have some Blackstone labs oil sample kits (from when i had my diesel) and i plan to change this oil, and take a sample and send it out. one thing that is could be also is the Moly engine assembly lube. but we will know more later .

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05 Sep 2012 20:39 #11005 by Kiln_Red
Replied by Kiln_Red on topic what oil should look like,

I normally only run break-in oil for around 1 hour at 1800 rpm.
The neighbors hate you if you have loud or even worse open exhaust.
Then I drain and run normal required oil for 2 to 3 hours with usually a drive in the middle.
Draining that oil and putting in the fresh makes sure that all the contaminates are out and not hammered into the bearings.
The next change I run up to 3000 kilometers or 2500 miles.
then 5000 k or 3800 miles.

This is just my quirkiness as a mechanic while breaking in a high/perf engine that I have spent maga bucks on


This sounds like a very good practice, Brad. Thank you for posting. I have made a mental note. :D

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06 Sep 2012 01:00 #11019 by 928mac
Replied by 928mac on topic what oil should look like,

well it does not look like metal to me. i do have some Blackstone labs oil sample kits (from when i had my diesel) and i plan to change this oil, and take a sample and send it out. one thing that is could be also is the Moly engine assembly lube. but we will know more later .


Yes, If the pistons and cams and journals are all were covered in white grease (Lithium Grease) then it will look very creamy.

That is why I only run it for 1 hour in the driveway with no load at 1800 RPM especially if you have new cams (or follow the cam break-in procedure)
Then dump the oil and change the filter while its hot.
Put in fresh oil and run it for a half hour and then drive easy for 1 to 1.5 hr then let it run in the driveway at 1000 rpm for 15 min and cool and do another oil and filter.

At this point all the rebuild metal and stuff should be gone.

Try not to go full throttle for a 1000 or more miles to seat the rings.
This depends on if they are moly rings or what and how good the cylinder walls were done.

Chrome rings sometimes never seat and it will always burn oil.

Of coarse our engines are different.

New factory engines are mechanically spun at the crank with no plugs in them to seat and test the engine before it gets to the dealer.

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06 Sep 2012 13:30 #11042 by Ducman82
Replied by Ducman82 on topic what oil should look like,
I just ordered up some Tr-1 and ZEP additive per Greg's recommendation. im going to drain this Castrol and send out a sample to be tested. im doing a rear main (waiting on parts) so i have the time.

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