Rear hatch lock question:

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17 Oct 2012 18:53 #11886 by Normy1
I have a rear hatch lock that won't unlock anymore.

The electrical hatch release works fine, but the key turns and turns and turns...

I pulled it apart today. The arm of the lock that presses down on the white nylon plastic arm moves a little bit...but won't press down hard enough on the nylon to pop the hatch.

Q: My car has the alarm. Would the non-alarm part work? I would take the non-alarm part and simply bolt the alarm switch at the end onto it. That, or since I disabled the troublesome central locking on my car 10 years ago....simply leave it disconnected.

The correct part at 928Intl. is $450. The non-alarm is $150-

Thanx!

N

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17 Oct 2012 19:06 #11887 by the flying scotsman
Norm........the rear hatch parts were updated and are available through 928srus.

They can fix you up as well as install details.

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18 Oct 2012 18:55 #11895 by Normy1
Replied by Normy1 on topic Rear hatch lock question:

Norm........the rear hatch parts were updated and are available through 928srus.

They can fix you up as well as install details.


What he is selling is the white rubber "tub" that sits on the rear end of the car and receives the hatch tongue. That isn't what I need. My tongue won't move enough because the metal part behind it won't put enough force onto the part it is supposed to hit on.

[shut UP! I'm having a little fun with this as usual~]

It just spins in the hole....

Any ideas?

N!

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19 Oct 2012 11:53 #11903 by wallyp
Replied by wallyp on topic Rear hatch lock question:
Normy,

Good to hear from you, your tongue, and your warped sense of humor again...

There have been several jury-rig solutions over the years. I'm not sure what is going on in your latch (I haven't looked at the latch workings in several years), but you can replace the white plastic latch. Cheap, and might help - they do wear.

Some folks have shimmed the metal tongue. One guy cut a strip from an oil bottle, bent it into a U, and slipped it over the tongue.

If the hole in the linkage is reamed out too much, perhaps installing a home-made bushing from small brass tubing would reduce the free-play enough to get a climax...

Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com

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19 Oct 2012 12:58 #11904 by xstepson
Replied by xstepson on topic Rear hatch lock question:
Wow Wally!
I wasn't expecting to see such a satisfying response from you! :)

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02 Nov 2012 18:17 #12257 by Normy1
Replied by Normy1 on topic Rear hatch lock question:

Normy,

Good to hear from you, your tongue, and your warped sense of humor again...

There have been several jury-rig solutions over the years. I'm not sure what is going on in your latch (I haven't looked at the latch workings in several years), but you can replace the white plastic latch. Cheap, and might help - they do wear.

Some folks have shimmed the metal tongue. One guy cut a strip from an oil bottle, bent it into a U, and slipped it over the tongue.

If the hole in the linkage is reamed out too much, perhaps installing a home-made bushing from small brass tubing would reduce the free-play enough to get a climax...



Wally: Battered but unbowed. Even quite shiny. And as profane as always, trust me-

I don't think the plastic part is the issue. I suspect the lock cylinder. The reason I suspect this is the fact that the key will turn and turn and turn in the same direction; Something metal has broken inside the cylinder. That's what happens in the door lock cylinders- The "pot metal" part breaks, and then it wont put force on the lock mechanism.

-The strange part is that it puts PARTIAL force on the plastic. But not enough.

What I think defines this problem is the fact that the key can turn at the same RPM as the crankshaft. Prior to this, my key in the hatch would turn, and then the hatch would pop open. It couldn't turn around and around and around. Something broke. But is this lock cylinder the same as the door locks? It makes sense to me from a production cost perspective for Porsche to have asked their parts supplier for the locks to supply the exact same lock cylinder and actuator tab for the hatch as the door locks. If this is the case, then a cheap door lock cylinder from one of the 928 vendors would solve this problem real quick.

-That stupid metal tab on the door lock cylinders! I swear I'm going to buy a metal lathe and some tools and make these out of billet steel some time!

N!

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05 Nov 2012 11:51 #12309 by xstepson
Replied by xstepson on topic Rear hatch lock question:
Normy,
It sounds as if the tab that orients the tumbler to the rear hatch part has broken. I do believe that it will come apart and you can replace the outer part of the tumbler and just swap the inner part to the new outer. I will attempt to verify this for you later today.

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14 Nov 2012 20:01 #12551 by ROG100
Replied by ROG100 on topic Rear hatch lock question:
If the male part on the upper latch is cracked around the base you will need to replace it and the none alarm with random key is the best way to go.
Look on the UK 928 forum if you need to replace the lock part as they have a great write up on how to do it.
Complete upper and lower assembly, lower insert, upper latch, pin and spring - we stock them all.

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17 Nov 2012 18:53 #12585 by Normy1
Replied by Normy1 on topic Rear hatch lock question:

Normy,
It sounds as if the tab that orients the tumbler to the rear hatch part has broken. I do believe that it will come apart and you can replace the outer part of the tumbler and just swap the inner part to the new outer. I will attempt to verify this for you later today.



Thanx John!

I pulled the hatch lock cylinder assembly in the driveway about a week ago, looked at it, and decided since dinner was being cooked by the ultimate home appliance, that it wasn't the best time to pull the inner workings of this part apart. I need to do this, but work right now is HECTIC! My schedule sucks, the electric hatch opener works fine.

[You people keep shipping things overnight; When you do this, I get sent to work. Dammit.....THANK YOU! Hah hah!]

When I get a chance, I'm going to pull the part again and drive out the drift pins and take the lock apart. I've done it three times so far [both doors and the hatch], so I'm getting good at it!

[is that something to be proud of-?]

Anyway, thanx for the help.

N

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