New oil pump and steel gear question

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19 Apr 2013 00:11 #14383 by 928mac
the question is does the tin washer behind the oil pump aluminum gear get used behind the new steel oil pump gear?

Thanks

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19 Apr 2013 01:14 #14384 by 928mac
Well I found the answer and it is NO.
When replacing the aluminum gear with the steel gear, you do not use the spacer/washer that was behind the aluminum gear.

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19 Apr 2013 07:37 #14386 by the flying scotsman
correct Brad.......if the engine was originaly fitted with an Aluminium gear the washer that had been installed behind the gear should be omitted when using the new steel gear.

The OP nut should then be torqued with blue loctite to 30 ft lbs.

hope the engine spins over just fine with valves all straight :)

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19 Apr 2013 10:03 #14391 by Kiln_Red

correct Brad.......if the engine was originaly fitted with an Aluminium gear the washer that had been installed behind the gear should be omitted when using the new steel gear.

The OP nut should then be torqued with blue loctite to 30 ft lbs.

hope the engine spins over just fine with valves all straight :)


^^What he said.^^

All of it. :)

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20 Apr 2013 17:33 #14405 by 928mac
To day I installed the belt and malcolm had suggested that at 45 deg, I could set the cams 3 teeth retarded.
Now I am not sure how the flywheel teeth line up but I believe I was right on the 45 deg mark and the crank lock was installed.

I use the suggested 3 tooth approximation and found that I had to turn both cams back 1 tooth.
So this is just a FYI that 3 teeth may work for 1 person but for me it was 2 teeth retarded with the crank locked at 45 deg
It could also be the way i count the TB cogs that mad the difference.

So once the belt was on I found that the leak I have been chasing was not the oil pump that I had just installed but the Long bolt from the front cover that goes through the water pump. Ya it was leaking coolant and washing down to look like oil.
How I figured it out was to taste the liquid and then I knew right away.
I temporally put a short bolt in the hole with an extra washer on the bolt so that it would not bottom out. (I threaded it in with my fingers testing the length to figure that out)

I connected up the 12 pin and 2 power wires (1 on the drivers and 1 on the passenger side)
Put the rad hoses on so that it wouldn't make a mess and spit coolant on the new belt.
Happy that everything was tied out of the way of the spinning belt i installed the balancer and pulleys and connected up the battery.
Primed it twice and then cranked it, primed it again and this time it fired right up and sounded as smooth as it ever did

I am very very happy and realize that that pain I sometimes get, must be those horse shoes shoved way up there.

Happy Happy Happy

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20 Apr 2013 23:01 #14414 by the flying scotsman
the cam timing mark is actually on the valley between teeth.......count 3 'valleys' after the one with the cam timing mark retarded for 45 degree BTDC timing.

glad to know you finally managed to get the car running.

a pic for easier comprehension:

Attached files [img]media/attachments/14780=1786-cam gear.JPG[/img]

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21 Apr 2013 01:45 #14415 by 928mac

the cam timing mark is actually on the valley between teeth.......count 3 'valleys' after the one with the cam timing mark retarded for 45 degree BTDC timing.

glad to know you finally managed to get the car running.

a pic for easier comprehension:

Ya thats where I had it but when I rolled it to TDC with the balancer in place I saw that I was 1 tooth off.
so maybe the crank was out a tooth.
Does not matter but I thought it would be a good topic for those that are planing to do their belt in the future.
Thank you for your help Malcom, again. It gave be a base line to work with.

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21 Apr 2013 09:51 #14419 by wallyp
You need to add sealant to the bolt that hits the water jacket.

Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com

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21 Apr 2013 12:17 #14423 by 928mac

You need to add sealant to the bolt that hits the water jacket.


That would be a good point to bring up Wally.
I used the loctite brand below.
for those that have not used sealer before, you just need it on a 3rd of the treads 1 thread up from the tip. I normally wipe the excess off with my finger which also helps seat the sealer in the thread.

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21 Apr 2013 20:49 #14427 by mm928
Nice Pic Brad, I did not know you could take pictures with your feet? Very talented... :)

Glad you got it sorted out....

1983 928S - 16v 4.7L L-Jetronic
Dark Grey w/ Blue Leather
85/86 exhaust manifolds
Y-Pipe
SS Hi-perf Cat
S4 springs
Bilstein shocks
Air pump delete
VIN: WP0JB0926DS861180
- - Isn't Life great? - -

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22 Apr 2013 00:58 #14436 by 928mac

Nice Pic Brad, I did not know you could take pictures with your feet? Very talented... :)

Glad you got it sorted out....


LOL ya my laptop sitting on a stool in the garage as I have my coffee and a smoke, before I had energy to comb my hair by the looks of it.

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22 Apr 2013 21:04 #14456 by mm928
:)

1983 928S - 16v 4.7L L-Jetronic
Dark Grey w/ Blue Leather
85/86 exhaust manifolds
Y-Pipe
SS Hi-perf Cat
S4 springs
Bilstein shocks
Air pump delete
VIN: WP0JB0926DS861180
- - Isn't Life great? - -

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