Anyone in Michigan with OB CIS knowledge?

OK, steel lines can be soaked in a can or tray of carb cleaner.
You will want a tray or can with a lid

After that have soaked for 4-6 hours, wash then under hot water and they should be sparkleing clean inside and out.
:cool:Thats what I would do.:cool:

Got at it tonight, got the injector lines cleared out...the FD decided to start leaking, took it apart and cleaned it out, a little Indian head and back together...put back in and no leaks, but everything is still out of whack. I know that the timing is good and there is spark...but this CIS is starting to irritate the hell out of me...

I have the CIS gauge set, but am a little unsure how to set it up to read pressures...

I'll give it a couple more tries and then...? This system is actually so simple that I'm positive that I'll be extremely pissed when I figure it out.

Thanks guys

Josh

Very few folks open up a CIS FD because they are quite fiddly and difficult to get back together and get working correctly... as you are finding out. There has to be someone out here who has done this and can help, but I'll be damned if I know who that might be.

Keep us posted and good luck!

I had a long learning curve/frustration with CIS too....low mile car that had been sitting..in the end..turned out to be multiple faults that were difficult to isolate- clogs in the fuel, erratic TSZ ignition module, incorrect coil, vacuum leaks...Just took time and a lot of effort and getting in up to the elbows. You've already run the gauntlets of mapping out the fuel flow and getting into the WUR and the FD.

Hang in there, it may be a brow-slapper when you're done, but as far as I'm concerned a variable system that acts on its own parameters is an inherently evil gordian fuel knot to begin with, and it makes my head hurt.
But its great when it works. I didn't believe folks that once it was sorted I could hook up the battery on a car that had been napping for a span of many months, and it would fire instantly...but it does.

I haven't heard of clogged lines before...that is daunting. I was going to suggest hooking them with a positive connection, reducers hose & clamp to a parts cleaner for a pressure flush..

Gauges are will help hone in on the fuel pressure curves, but don't give an instant diagnosis beyond where you are already at. They can just tell you if you are within spec and something else is at-play, or whether you are as far out of spec as you would be to be in a no-run condition...in which case you still have to isolate the fault(s).

If you can drop me an email, I may have some .pdfs on hand, not sure they will help.

There are some great CIS folks on that other porsche forum...the place sometimes comes with a heaping spoonful of other bs, but the CIS support can be helpful.

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James,
I would like to believe that the FD is finally back to where it should be now that it's clean inside, and not leaking...I just need to figure out how to hook up the gauges to get the pressure readings...I hope that the WUR isn't bad...it's back to firing on key turn, running about 15 seconds maybe 25 and then dying. I need to go back and do a flow check to make sure that I have appropriate flow rates for the car...still thinking that the FP that I put in isn't giving enough fuel.

Steve,
Thanks for the thoughts on cleaning the lines out...I ended up using some safety wire and slowly working through the lines to break the crud up and then blowing it out with some carb cleaner and then air from the air compressor with an air gun...I know it's getting fuel, otherwise it wouldn't even fire, I just think that it's not enough

on another note...anyone ever had an issue with the starter grinding? I know that I have good voltage, and my flywheel is good all the way around, just kinda figure that the starter is giving out after 33 years...it appears to be the original starter. It will engage about 5 cranks in a row and then another 5 grinding then a couple cranks and then back to grinding....I can deal with that until the car stays running and then on to the next problem.

thanks,
Josh

Ok, got back at it tonight...with the help of the wife. I checked "warm" control pressure and system pressure..."warm" control pressure was 5.1 bar, system pressure was approx 5.15 bar...don't know exactly what that means, but I don't think that it's right. Any ideas guys?

Thanks,
Josh